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ReFlex Binding to Channel Board:
What you will need:
- #2 Phillips screwdriver
- 2 M6 X 13mm screws (Burton Black screws)
- Channel mounting disks (some bindings do not come with compatible disks but suitable disks can often be purchased. For help with binding disks please call us at 01924 444888)
Before you install your bindings you must determine your stance angle and position, these configurations will be based mainly on what is most comfortable for you but can be adapted slightly to help improve technique and riding style. For more information on this please continue to read.
Choosing your stance
The first thing you must decide when setting up your snowboard is whether you are goofy or regular stance.R egular is when you most often have your left foot forward, while goofy means you ride right foot forward. If you are unsure which stance is best for you then you can try one of the following to help determine this:
Have your buddy push you (lightly) from behind. The foot you put out to stop your fall is likely your front foot.
Slide across a slippery floor in your socks. The foot you naturally lead with during the slide is your front foot.
Binding Angle
This is personal preference and is based on what feels comfortable for you. The most common angles range from positive 6 to 22 degrees on the front foot. This largely comes down to the anatomy of your knees and hips and the classic test was to jump off a low chair and then marry up the angle of your feet on landing. This is great in theory but must be taken with a pinch of salt. The angle of the back foot is a little more complex and comes down to both anatomy and your riding style. Generally speaking, for park riders or all mountain snowboarders who ride equally in both direction the angle of the rear binding will be identical to the front foot, yet facing out to the tail of the board to create a symmetrical stance. Most customers we speak with only ride switch (reverse) a small proportion of the time and thus we suggesting reducing the back foot angle to around 6 degrees, again facing the tail of the board.
Binding Installation
Start by removing the rubber channel plug from your board, this can be done by carefully prying it up with a screwdriver or by hand.
Then slide in 2 of the 4 channel inserts into the channel before replacing the rubber plug.
Place the disk into your binding at the desired angle, to set the angle most disks have a marker on the edge which should be lined up with the angle market on the binding itself. As a general rule the angle is segmented by 3 degrees for each notch.
Once the disk is in place you can put the binding onto your board, move the channel inserts so that they align with the holes in the binding disk and screw in the black screws loosely so that the binding can be easily adjusted to the appropriate stance. There are a few adjustments you can make to your stance to improve the comfort of your ride. The different adjustments and how to complete them are listed below.
Stance Width
Most boards have a reference stance which is determined by the height and weight of the recommended user of that board, these are a good starting point but this does not limit you tothis stance.
A wider stance improves overall control but can be tiring on the legs and puts pressure on the knees, so be wary to go too wide. We are seeing an increasing number of riders using a narrower stance in the interest of injury prevention but the honest answer is that if it feels right for your body then it likely is.
To adjust your stance make sure the 2 screws on your bindings are loose and slide the binding to the desired width before tightening the screws, you can use the reference guide to help keep track of your stance width.
Stance Angle
This is mostly personal preference and is based off what feels comfortable for you but the most common angles range from positive 6 degrees to positive 22 degrees for the front boot and negative 15 degrees to 0 degrees for the back foot.
If you often change your direction on runs from left foot forward to right foot forward and vice versa a twin stance may be suitable for you, this is when the front and rear binding angle are equal so the board will ride evenly in either direction, we would recommend a positive 15 degree on the front binding and a negative 15 degree angle on the rear.
If you like to remain consistent and keep the same foot in front then a directional stance may be more suitable for you, for this we would recommend a positive 15 degree angle for the front and a negative 3 degree angle for the rear
To adjust your angle you should remove the mounting screws from your binding as well as the disk, rotate the disk to the desired angle and reinstall it into the binding, make sure the holes are once again lined up and then reinstall and tighten the screws in a cross pattern.
Stance centring
A centred stance is when there is an even distance to the tip of your board as there is to the tail, it is best for park riding and will generally suit a snowboarder who will ride in both directions. A rear shifted stance is when the stance is shifted an inch or two towards the tail of the board, this is useful for when looking for additional carving power, or when riding deeper snow as the tail weighting will allow the back of the board to sink and thus bring the nose on top.
To shift your stance, remove the mounting screws on your bindings and shift both bindings evenly towards the tail before re inserting the screws and tightening them up. Recurring back leg burn can often be prevented by only moving the back binding toward the tail by one hole.
Adjusting your bindings
Often the reference positions are perfect but sometimes you may want to alter this slightly to improve your comfort or riding style. Below are some adjustments which can be made and a guide on how to make the adjustment.
Binding centring
Toe or Heel drag can act like an anchor when trying to perform a turn, centring your bindings can also help to maximise edging power.
As a general rule if you have smaller boots on a wider board you should adjust the bindings towards the toe edge to increase power on those toe side turns. If you have larger boots and a narrower board you should adjust the bindings towards the heel edge to help prevent toe drag.
To adjust the binding you should remove the 4 screws per binding before sliding the whole binding either forward or backwards to align the appropriate holes with the channel inserts before replacing the screws then tighten them up to prevent the binding from sliding around.
Hi-Back rotation
The Hi-back on your bindings should be rotated so that they are parallel with the heel edge of the board, this will maximise power and lead to easier trickery.
To rotate the back, loosen the screws on either side of the binding that connect the hi-back to the baseplate. Then twist the back before re tightening the screws when the back is parallel to the heel edge and the hi-back is snug in the heel cup. For angles above 30 degrees the washer can be rotated to give that extra adjustability.
Forward Lean
Increased forward lean can equal quicker turns and more response but it can make you tired quicker than usual, less lean provides more freedom and freestyle “tweak-ability.”
There are many different systems for the forward lean adjustment but the main systems either have a dial which can be rotated to push the hi-back up or a tab that is pulled to allow you to slide a block up or down before pushing the tab back flush. Most systems have indicators which tell you which position you have selected so you can replicate this on the other binding.
Foot bed adjustment
The foot bed is used to reduce toe drag and foot fatigue while also adding more power into your turns. You should only extend the plate as far as the boot extends, excess extension can lead to major toe drag.
Different bindings have different adjustment systems, some of the main systems are:
Burton bindings – adjust the foot bed by popping the tabs out of the heel pad before sliding the bed to the desired location and then popping the tabs into the heel pads pre-set locations.
Flow/union bindings – Loosen the screw on the foot bed of the binding and slide the bed to your desired position before tightening the screw.
Ankle and Toe straps
To adjust strap length, first loosen screw that connects strap to slider. Slide strap to desired length and match up slider hole to screw. Place empty boot in binding, check length and re-tighten strap screw. Contour of the ankle strap should align with the contour of the boot so that the strap is centred on the boot.
Mounting your binding straps higher can offer more support and power or if you move them lower it will result in more flexibility and “tweak-ability.”
To adjust strap height, first unscrew strap to baseplate connection. Remove strap and screw, reposition at either the high or low hole (you will need to move both parts of the screw as there is a separate nut which needs to be used.) Align strap slider or ratchet tongue with new baseplate mounting position. Insert D-nut to hold part in place. Retighten strap screw with screwdriver and re-check strap length to boot size.
